Sewing Women's Panties: Step-by-Step Masterclass with Enclosed Gusset and Picot Elastic

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Sewing delicate, anatomical, and supremely comfortable lingerie is one of the most rewarding branches of garment making. Unlike mass-market underwear, crafting women's panties at home allows you to select premium cotton-spandex jersey, construct a completely enclosed hygienic gusset without chafing exposed seam allowances, and calibrate elastic tension to your exact body contours. In this masterclass, we explore the step-by-step luxury construction of daily briefs using a standard domestic sewing machine.

Materials: Cotton Jersey, Breathable Lining, and Picot Elastic

• Cotton-elastane jersey (95% cotton, 5% spandex, 160–180 gsm);
• 100% natural cotton knit scrap for the inner hygienic gusset lining;
• Plush-back picot lingerie elastic (2.0–2.5 m);
• Super Stretch needles (#70/75) and quality polyester thread.

Cutting Pattern Pieces and Grainline Alignment

Align front and back pieces along the vertical knit rib wales. Cut one front piece, one back piece, and two gusset pieces (one main fabric, one 100% cotton lining). Allow 0.6 cm seam allowances on elasticated edges and 0.8 cm on side seams.

The Enclosed Burrito Gusset Technique

Sandwich the back piece between the two gusset layers (right sides facing main gusset, lining facing wrong side). Serge or stitch seam. Roll front and back panels tightly between gussets, stitch front seam, and pull garment right side out through side opening for completely enclosed seam allowances.

Stitching Picot Elastic on Leg Openings with 3-Step Zigzag

Align elastic right sides facing front edge with picot loops pointing inward. Serge or zigzag lightly stretching (5–8%). Fold elastic to wrong side and topstitch from the right side with a 3-step elastic zigzag stitch.

Closing One Side Seam and Applying Waistband Elastic

Join one side seam with overlock or stretch stitch. In flat continuous orientation, apply picot elastic to the waistline with 10–12% stretch.

Closing Final Side Seam and Bar-Tacking Elastic Ends

Align waist and leg elastic ends, serge final side seam, and press toward back. Bar-tack seam allowances flat for friction-free comfort.

Tailor's Advice for Balanced Elastic Tension

• Reduce presser foot pressure to eliminate edge waviness;
• Use 3-step elastic zigzag to accommodate high body flex;
• Cut elastic 10–12% shorter than the garment raw perimeter.

Common Mistakes in Lingerie Sewing

• Stitching with non-elastic straight lockstitch;
• Excessive elastic pulling causing bunching;
• Using dull needles that produce runs in knitwear.