A perfectly even finishing stitch at a distance of 1 mm (to the edge) or 5–7 mm from the seam is the main sign of factory quality and couture craftsmanship. It is almost impossible to achieve perfect parallelism manually due to differences in fabric thickness. A professional spring-loaded compensation foot with a guide edge-limiter (CR/CL foot) comes to the rescue. In this video tutorial we show how to set up and work with this indispensable presser foot.
Contents of the video lesson
- 1. Operating principle of the compensation spring clamp (CR 1/16, CR 1/8, CR 1/4)
- 2. Stitching of collars, cuffs and sides of the jacket strictly to the edge (1.0–1.5 mm)
- 3. Passing thickenings and transverse seams without shifting the stitching
- 4. Compatibility of the presser foot with industrial and household lockstitch machines
- Expert advice: selecting thread tension for embossed finishing stitch
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
1. Compensation foot device
The right or left sole of the foot is spring-loaded and moves freely in height regardless of the guide edge, which compensates for the difference in thickness between the fold of the fabric and the main fabric.
2. Size markings
CR 1/16" gives a stitch 1.5mm from the edge (for collars and pocket flaps). CR 1/8 inch - 3.2 mm. CR 1/4 inch - 6.4 mm (denim and sports style).
3. Speed and accuracy
The tailor can sew at maximum speed: the edge rests against the edge of the fabric and physically does not allow the needle to move even a fraction of a millimeter.
4. Threads for stitching
To create a raised seam, a special thickened thread (Gutermann Top Stitch or Madeira Aerofil No. 35) is used in the upper looper and standard thread No. 120 in the shuttle.
Advice for a tailor
When using a thick finishing thread, install a needle with an enlarged eye (Topstitch Needle No. 90/100) and increase the stitch length to 3.5–4.5 mm. And you can download patterns for jackets and coats with ideal reliefs in the catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is the CR industrial presser foot suitable for a household machine?
Yes, when using a special adapter for high legs (High Shank Adapter).
What is the difference between CR and CL presser feet?
CR (Right) - the edge to the right of the needle for right stitching. CL (Left) - the edge to the left of the needle.
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