The back patch pocket is a key visual and design element of the jeans, creating a beautiful rear fit geometry. Perfectly even symmetrical corners, parallel double stitching with contrasting red threads and strong triangular fastenings in the upper corners of the pocket distinguish a factory product from an amateur one. In this master class we will examine in detail the technology of sewing a pocket.
Contents of the master class
- Cutting out the pocket and making a rigid cardboard template
- Processing the top edge of the pocket with a double hem
- Performing branded decorative embroidery (arches)
- Forming allowances with iron and template
- Adjusting a pocket to the back half of jeans
- Expert advice: installing rivets or zigzag fastening
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Cut out and cardboard template
Cut out an exact pocket template from thick cardboard without any seam allowances. The cardboard template allows you to iron absolutely symmetrical side and bottom allowances in 10 seconds.
Top cut processing
The upper edge of the pocket is folded twice by 1.2–1.5 cm and sewn with a 2-needle stitch or two parallel stitches at a distance of 6 mm.
Branded decorative stitching
A decorative pattern (arches, seagulls, geometric lines) is marked on a stencil and stitched with a special thick denim thread No. 30 with an increased tension of the upper thread.
Forming allowances
Place the cardboard template on the inside of the pocket, fold in the seam allowances (1.0 cm) and carefully iron them with a powerful steam iron, forming crisp edges.
Setting up a pocket
The pocket is pinned along the markings to the back half of the jeans and sewn with a double stitch: the first stitch to the edge at 1 mm, the second at a distance of 6–7 mm.
Tailor's advice
The upper corners of the pocket experience maximum load when worn. Be sure to make reinforced triangular tacks with a tight, small zigzag (stitch length 0.5 mm, width 2.5 mm). And our ready-made patterns will help you sew stylish jeans.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How to stitch a pocket evenly on both halves of jeans?
Mark the position of the pockets on both halves at the same time, aligning the back halves along the crotch and middle seams.
Which thread is best for stitching a denim pocket?
Use a special reinforced denim stitching thread (Gutermann Denim or Madeira Heavy Metal) paired with regular #40 thread in a shuttle.
Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product. To be the first to learn about the intricacies of design, modeling and trends in the sewing world, subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.
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