A welt pocket with a flap and one or two facings is one of the most important couture components of a classic jacket, coat or cardigan. A straight frame without distortions, neat straight corners and a tight fit of the flap are the hallmarks of high tailoring skills. In this step-by-step guide, we will examine in detail the technology of assembling a pocket with millimeter precision.
Contents of the master class
- Procurement and duplication of parts (valve, facings, shelf part)
- Precise marking of the pocket on the shelf of the product
- Sewing the flap and facings with parallel stitches
- Jewelry cutting the entrance to the pocket and forming the corners
- Installation of pocket lining (burlap) and finishing WTO
- Expert's advice: how to avoid spillage in the corners of the fabric
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Procurement and duplication of parts
The entrance to the pocket from the inside of the shelf is reinforced with an adhesive filler that extends 1.5–2 cm beyond the ends of the frame. The top flap and facings are duplicated with shape-resistant suit doublerin.
Precise marking of the pocket on the shelf of the product
The pocket frame is marked using thin chalk lines or basting stitches: entry line, pocket width (usually 13–15 cm) and frame width (1.0–1.5 cm).
Sewing the flap and facings with parallel stitches
The facings and the finished flap are sewn in strictly parallel lines at a distance of the width of the frame. The beginning and end of the stitches should end at the same perpendicular level with clear bartacks.
Jewelry cutting the pocket entrance and forming the corners
The entrance to the pocket is cut in the middle between the lines, not reaching the ends of 1.0 cm, after which diagonal cuts are made to the ends of the lines, not reaching 1 mm. An undercut will lead to a crease, an overcut will lead to a hole in the shelf.
Installation of pocket lining (burlap) and finishing WTO
The facings are turned inside out, the corners are secured with a double reverse stitch along the base of the triangle, after which the pocket burlap is sewn down and the knot is carefully ironed through a damp ironing iron.
Tailor's advice
Before cutting the frame, always check the parallelism of the lines with a ruler: the distance between them should be absolutely the same along the entire length. And verified ready-made patterns from our catalog will help you sew a premium jacket.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should the flap be for a men's jacket?
The standard flap length for a men's jacket in sizes 48–52 is 14.5–15.5 cm, width is 4.5–5.0 cm.
How to prevent pocket seams from running through the front of a jacket?
When performing WTO, place thick strips of paper or cardboard under the allowances so that the seams do not print on the front fabric.
Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product. To be the first to learn about the intricacies of design, modeling and trends in the sewing world, subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.
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