A knit raglan t-shirt featuring a tailored V-neckline is a versatile wardrobe staple that demands precise knitwear construction skills. Unlike a basic round neckband, executing a sharp V-neck collar band requires millimeter accuracy when joining the band miter and clipping the front bodice apex. Any misalignment creates visible wrinkles or bunched fabric across the chest. In Part 2 of this masterclass, we explore the step-by-step assembly of raglan seams, crisp V-neck band shaping, and clean coverstitch hemming.
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- Required Materials and Machine Setup
- Step 1. Attaching Raglan Sleeves to Front and Back
- Step 2. Measuring and Pre-Pressing the Ribbed V-Neck Band
- Step 3. Stitching the Mitered V-Center Apex
- Step 4. Clipping Bodice Corner and Serging the Neckband
- Step 5. Continuous Underarm and Side Seams
- Step 6. Coverstitching Hem and Sleeve Openings
- Tailor's Advice for Flat V-Neck Bands
- Common Mistakes to Avoid
Required Materials and Machine Setup
- Cotton-elastane jersey knit (95% cotton, 5% spandex, 180 gsm);
- Matching rib knit strip (4.5 cm wide by 45–50 cm);
- Lightweight fusible knit interfacing (2x2 cm square);
- 4-thread differential serger, lockstitch machine with stretch needles (#75);
- Steam iron, tailor's pins, fabric chalk.
Step 1. Attaching Raglan Sleeves to Front and Back
Serge front raglan seams matching alignment notches. Serge one back raglan seam, leaving one back seam open for flat neckband insertion.
Step 2. Measuring and Pre-Pressing the Ribbed V-Neck Band
Cut ribbing strip to 75–80% of total neckline length. Fold in half lengthwise and steam press into a gentle curve.
Step 3. Stitching the Mitered V-Center Apex
Fold band right sides facing at center point. Stitch at a 45-degree angle from folded edge to raw edges. Press seam allowances open to create a crisp mitered point.
Step 4. Clipping Bodice Corner and Serging the Neckband
Reinforce front V apex with fusible interfacing on wrong side. Anchor band apex to front center with a short lockstitch seam. Clip front bodice seam allowance precisely to the stitch line. Serge neckband around entire neckline, stretching ribbing evenly across shoulders and back.
Step 5. Continuous Underarm and Side Seams
Close final back raglan seam. Align underarm intersections and serge side seams continuously from sleeve hem to shirt bottom.
Step 6. Coverstitching Hem and Sleeve Openings
Press 2.5 cm hem allowances and stitch on a coverstitch machine or with a twin needle.
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Discover digital patterns for raglan t-shirts and hoodies with balanced neckline proportions in the Vykroyka catalog.
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