In the final 5th part of our practical video course on sewing a knitted bomber jacket from a brushed three-thread footer, we perform key finishing operations: sewing an elastic stand-up collar and a cashcorse belt, processing the sleeves with cuffs, installing a detachable tractor zipper with a protective strip and the final wet-heat treatment (WHT).
Contents of the video lesson
- 1. Preparation and calculation of the length of the belt and cuffs from cash corse (coefficient 0.75)
- 2. Sewing in a stand-up collar and detachable zipper with drapes
- 3. Connecting the bottom of a bomber jacket with an elastic belt on an overlock
- 4. Fixation of sleeve cuffs and finishing stitching on the cover
- Expert advice: how to avoid waves when sewing a zipper to the footer
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
1. Calculation of a knitted garter
For a perfect fit without excessive tightness, the length of the belt and cuffs made of thick cash-corse is calculated using the formula: cut length of the main product multiplied by an elasticity coefficient of 0.75–0.80.
2. Installing a detachable zipper
The front sections are pre-reinforced with thin knitted dublerin. The zipper is basted or fixed with adhesive web before stitching on a straight-stitch machine with a Teflon foot.
3. Attaching the belt
The belt is folded lengthwise inside out, divided into 4 control marks and evenly stretched when stitched with a 4-thread overlock stitch.
4. Final WTO
All seams are steamed through an iron using a wooden iron block to fix flat seams.
Tailor's advice
Always use Super Stretch or Jersey size 80/90 ball point needles to avoid puncturing the fabric fibers and preventing creases. And you can download the exact patterns for a stylish bomber jacket in the catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Which footer is better to choose for a warm bomber jacket?
A 3-thread brushed thread with a density of 320–360 g/m² or diagonal footer of feather quality is ideal.
Do I need to duplicate the fit of the bomber jacket?
Yes, a lightweight knitted fabric (35-45 g/m²) is a must for stability of the fastener and to prevent zipper stretching.
Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product. To be the first to learn about the intricacies of design, modeling and trends in the sewing world, subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.
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