A bomber jacket made from thick fleece, brushed or looped, is a versatile piece for a stylish everyday wardrobe. In the first introductory part of the video course, we examine the rules of working with bulky knitwear: steam decatching, economical layout of patterns taking into account the direction of the fleece, seam allowances for overlocking, duplicating the fastener area and pockets with thin knitted adhesive material.
Contents of part 1 of the video lesson
- 1. Choice of knitwear (3-thread footer) and companion for the garter (cashkorse 95/5)
- 2. Checking the direction of the pile/combing on the parts of the front, back and sleeves
- 3. Marking control notches along the armholes, neckline and sleeve cap
- 4. Duplicating hems and pocket entrances with knitted duplerin
- Designer's advice: how not to confuse the direction of the pile when cutting
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
1. Materials for a bomber jacket
To sew the jacket, a three-thread footer with a density of 330–380 g/m² is used. For the cuffs, collar and belt, a dense cashcorse with a density of 400–450 g/m² is selected in a tone or contrasting color.
2. Pile direction
When cutting brushed footer, all parts should be oriented in the same direction (the pile is directed from top to bottom) to avoid different shades on the finished product.
3. Seam allowances
When stitching on a 4-thread overlocker, allowances of 0.7–0.8 cm are placed, along the bottom and sleeves under the stitched cuffs - 0.7 cm, under the zipper - 1.0 cm.
4. Local duplication
The hems and pocket entry areas are duplicated with adhesive material on a knitted basis, which preserves the softness of the fabric.
Advice to the master
Do not use hard, inelastic dublerin for knitwear - it will make the sides look “wooden”. Use elastic supplex dublerin or knitted interlining. And you can download the exact patterns for a stylish oversized bomber jacket in our catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How much fabric do you need for an oversized bomber jacket?
With a footer width of 180 cm, 1.5–1.8 m of main fabric and 0.4–0.5 m of cashcorse are required.
Which type of zipper to choose for a bomber jacket?
Detachable tractor zipper (type 5) with metal or matte plastic lock.
Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product. To be the first to learn about the intricacies of design, modeling and trends in the sewing world, subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.
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