Processing the zipper is one of the key technological stages when sewing belt products. Whether it’s a classic trouser codpiece with a one-piece or stitched edge, or a hidden zipper in the middle seam of a skirt, the knot must be absolutely flat, smooth in fastening and protected from deformation. In this practical guide we will analyze both methods with visual assembly diagrams.
Contents of the guide
- Part 1. Classic trouser codpiece with a slope
- Marking, duplicating the codpiece and preparing the slope
- Attaching the zipper and finishing stitching of the codpiece frame
- Part 2. Sewing a hidden zipper into a skirt using a special foot
- Expert advice: how to avoid waves on thin fabrics when sewing in a zipper
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Part 1. Classic trouser codpiece with a slope
The codpiece ensures reliable closure of the trouser fastener. The slope protects the body from contact with the metal zipper and prevents the seat seam from coming apart.
Markup and duplication
The codpiece allowance on the left half of the trousers must be duplicated with adhesive interlining or doublerin. The slope is folded in half lengthwise, turned along the bottom edge and overcast with an overlocker.
Attaching a zipper and finishing stitching
The zipper braid is stitched to the right seam allowance and the slope, after which the left half is sewn with a figured finishing stitch 2.5–3.0 cm wide with a tight bartack installed at the bottom.
Part 2. Sewing a hidden zipper into a skirt
The hidden zipper is sewn into the open middle seam with a special foot with grooves that bends the zipper spiral. The stitch is laid close to the teeth without puncturing the spiral.
Tailor's advice
Before sewing in a hidden zipper, press the seam allowances with an adhesive edge on the bias or with a dowel: this will prevent the fabric from stretching and wavering. And proven ready-made patterns will help you sew trousers or a skirt with a perfect fit.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Which side is the male and female codpiece fastened to?
In men's trousers, the codpiece is fastened from left to right (the right half overlaps the left), in classic women's trousers - from right to left (although in a modern unisex cut, both options are acceptable).
How to shorten a coiled zipper?
Measure the desired length, place a hand bartack with a few stitches through the spiral and cut off the excess with scissors, leaving 1.5–2 cm from the bartack.
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