The processing of a stand-up collar with a partial zipper (Half-Zip) or a central zipper with closing of open seams with cotton keeper tape is a trademark of luxury segment clothing. The keeper tape completely masks the cut of the zipper and the neck allowance, protecting the neck from rubbing with plastic teeth. In this master class we will examine in detail the technology of clean closed assembly of the assembly.
Contents of the master class
Preparation of parts: inner and outer stand-up collar
The outer stand-up collar is duplicated with a thin elastic knitted dublerin, and the inner collar is cut 2 mm smaller in height to create a beautiful piping inward.
Sewing zipper tape into sides and collar
The zipper is stitched between the outer and inner collars, while the upper end of the zipper tape is carefully bent at an angle of 45 degrees, excluding the thickening in the corner of the stand.
Adjusting the keeper tape to the neck allowance
Cotton keeper tape 10–12 mm wide is pre-decatted with an iron and steam and adjusted on one side to the seam allowance for setting in the collar.
Clean corner turning and finishing stitch
The keeper tape is folded down, overlapping the overlock seam, and adjusted to the edge by 1 mm along the back of the product, creating a perfectly clean and flat back.
Tailor's advice
Before attaching the keeper tape, be sure to trim the neck seam allowance in steps (up to 4–5 mm) so that the knot does not create excessive rigidity at the neck. And you can use exact patterns from our catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
What material should the keeper tape be made of?
Use 100% cotton keeper tape with a diagonal weave (herringbone). It is soft, breathable and does not give a hard edge.
How to turn the top corners of a zipper collar straight out?
Trim the excess seam allowance at the corner diagonally, leaving 2mm, and straighten the corner with a wooden tailor's bone without using sharp scissors.
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