The success of sewing any garment depends 70% on the correct selection of fabric. Even the most impeccable pattern will not save a dress if a rigid, shape-resistant fabric is chosen for the flying silhouette or if the fabric shrinks catastrophically after the first wash. In this guide, Vykroyka.com.ua experts share 5 fundamental rules for choosing textiles for any type of clothing.
Contents of the article
- Rule 1. Correspondence of the plasticity of the fabric to the style and design of the pattern
- Rule 2. Composition analysis: natural, artificial and synthetic fibers
- Rule 3. Determination of density (g/m²) and elongation coefficient
- Rule 4. Express tests in the store: creasing, fraying and thread distortion
- Rule 5. Accurate calculation of footage, taking into account shrinkage and direction of the pattern
- Advice from an expert materials scientist: how to read markings on a roll
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Rule 1. Plasticity of fabric and style
For models with soft draperies and flounces, choose flowing fabrics (silk, viscose, tencel, chiffon). For formal jackets, straight coats and sheath dresses, shape-resistant fabrics (suit wool, gabardine, thick cotton) are required.
Rule 2. Analysis of fiber composition
The best choice for everyday wear is mixed fabrics (for example, 70% wool + 30% polyester or 95% cotton + 5% elastane). They combine the hygiene of natural fibers with the practicality and crease resistance of synthetics.
Rule 3. Density and extensibility
Be sure to check the fabric density (in g/m²). For T-shirts the density is 160-200 g/m², for hoodies - 320-420 g/m², for coats - 450-650 g/m².
Rule 4. Rapid fabric tests
Squeeze the corner of the fabric in your fist for 10 seconds - if the fabric remains very wrinkled, the product will require constant tedious ironing.
Rule 5. Calculation of footage
Always allow a margin of +10–15% to the length of the product for technological shrinkage during decaling and adjustment of the pattern (check, stripe, large print).
Tailor's advice
Always purchase thread and duplicating materials at the same time as the fabric, holding the spool to the cut in daylight. And proven ready-made patterns from our catalog will help you choose the ideal model.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
What to do if the fabric is skewed in the roll?
Align the cut with the pulled out transverse weft thread and straighten the geometry diagonally with a steam iron.
What is the difference between viscose and polyester?
Viscose is an artificial fiber made from natural wood cellulose; it breathes and cools the body. Polyester is 100% synthetic from petroleum products.
Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product. To be the first to learn about the intricacies of design, modeling and trends in the sewing world, subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.
Apparel Industry Hub in Telegram
Community of garment manufacturers, tailors and designers. Daily fresh workshop vacancies, verified factories database and direct contacts.
