Master class : coudre un t-shirt basique ras du cou (Partie 1 : découpe et assemblage des épaules) | Vykroyka.com.ua

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A basic T-shirt with a straight or slightly loose fit is an absolute bestseller in any wardrobe. In the first part of our detailed video course, we examine the professional technology for working with thin cotton knitwear (stitched stitch with lycra): decatching the fabric, correct cutting without helical distortion of the loop columns, stabilization of shoulder seams with elastic tape and assembly on a 4-thread overlocker.

1. Decatation of stockinette

Cotton knitwear shrinks up to 7–10%. Before cutting, the fabric must be washed at 30°C or thoroughly treated with iron steam without tension along the edge.

2. Correct cutting

The grain thread must strictly coincide with the direction of the loop stitch of the knitwear, otherwise the finished T-shirt will twist along the side seams after the first wash.

3. Shoulder stabilization

A thin transparent silicone tape 4–6 mm wide or a strip of dublerin along the back is inserted into the overlock seam, which prevents the shoulder from stretching when worn.

4. Assembling on an overlocker

Stitching is performed with a 4-thread elastic stitch with a looper thread tension of 3–4.

Advice to the master
Use fine Schmetz Jersey needles #70/75. A needle that is too thick leaves micro-holes on a thin cooler, which turn into holes over time. And you can download the exact patterns for a basic oversized T-shirt in the catalog ready-made patterns.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

What fabric composition is best for the perfect T-shirt?
Cotton 95% + lycra/elastane 5%, density 180–200 g/m², Peñe (Compact) quality.

Is it possible to sew a T-shirt without an overlocker?
Yes, on a regular household machine using an elastic knitted zigzag stitch or stretch stitch and a double needle.

Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product.

See ready-made proportions for sports and casual models in the selection patterns for men's T-shirts and T-shirts.

To be the first to learn about the intricacies of design, modeling and trends in the sewing world, subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.