Coudre une olympienne avec une manche raglan : une master class complète étape par étape de la coupe au produit fini

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A sports track jacket featuring raglan sleeves is the ultimate embodiment of functional athletic style. Unlike set-in sleeves, the raglan cut eliminates restrictive shoulder seams, providing unhindered arm movement and a sleek ergonomic silhouette. Constructing a knit raglan jacket requires specialized garment construction techniques: raglan seams are cut on the bias and require stay tape stabilization to prevent wavy distortion. In this masterclass, we explore each phase of building a professional zip-up track jacket with pockets and a stand collar.

Required Materials and Tools

• Main Fabric — 2-end or 3-end French terry, loopback jersey, or athletic knit (1.5 to 1.9 m);
• Rib Knit (Kashkorse) — 0.35–0.45 m for collar, cuffs, and waistband;
• Separating Zipper — open-end zipper (60–70 cm);
• Fusible stay tape (formband) — 10–12 mm wide;
• Sewing Machines — 4-thread serger, domestic sewing machine with stretch needles (#75–90);
• Tailor's shears, pins, chalk, steam iron.

Step 1. Fabric Preparation & Raglan Sleeve Cutting

Pre-steam fabric before cutting. Mark front and back notches on raglan sleeve pieces carefully, as front armscye curves deeper than the back.

Step 2. Stabilizing Bias Raglan Seams

Iron fusible stay tape along the front raglan edges to prevent stretching under the presser foot.

Step 3. Assembling Front Zipper Pockets

Interface pocket entries, insert pocket zippers, attach pocket bags, and edgestitch securely.

Step 4. Attaching Raglan Sleeves

Serge front and back raglan seams matching alignment notches. Press seam allowances toward bodice and topstitch if desired.

Step 5. Continuous Underarm and Side Seams

Align underarm seam intersections and serge from sleeve wrist down through side seams in one continuous motion.

Step 6. Constructing the Stand-Up Collar

Interface outer collar, assemble with inner ribbing, and serge to neckline opening.

Step 7. Installing the Separating Zipper

Interface front center edges. Baste zipper, mark horizontal cross-points (collar seam, pockets, hem), and stitch with a zipper foot.

Step 8. Attaching Ribbed Cuffs and Hem Band

Assemble rib knit cuffs and waistband, stretch evenly while serging, and steam press.