In the 4th part of the training video course on sewing a bomber jacket, we consider in detail the technology of processing the bottom of the sleeves with knitted cuffs made of cashcorse. You will learn to accurately calculate the length of a cuff taking into account the girth of the wrist, cleanly stitch the cuff into a ring with offset allowances to eliminate thickness, and sew the garter to the sleeve using a 4-thread overlocker with uniform tension.
Contents of part 4 of the video lesson
- 1. Calculation of cuff sizes based on wrist circumference (plus an increase of 2–3 cm for freedom)
- 2. Open the cashkorse in the direction of the loop columns
- 3. Stitching a cuff into a ring on a straight-stitch machine with ironing seam allowances
- 4. Folding the cuff in half and fixing the 4 control marks
- 5. Sewing a cuff to a bomber sleeve using a 4-thread overlock
- Designer's advice: distribution of the fit of a wide sleeve along the cuff
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
1. Formula for calculating the cuff
Length of cashcorse cuff = Wrist circumference + 3.0 cm (or length of the lower section of the sleeve × 0.70). The height of the cuff in the cut is 12–14 cm (finished 5–6 cm).
2. Elimination of seam thickness
The seam of the cuff is sewn with a straight stitch on a sewing machine and carefully ironed on a special sleeve block.
3. Seam alignment
The cuff is folded in half with the wrong side inward, placed inside the sleeve face to face, the seam of the cuff is combined with the elbow or bottom seam of the sleeve.
4. Overlock stitch in a circle
When stitching, the cuff is evenly stretched to the width of the bottom of the sleeve, the overlock knife cuts off micro-irregularities of the edge (1 mm).
Advice for a tailor
Before sewing the cuff, place an auxiliary stitch along the bottom of the sleeve with a light gather on the footer - this will ensure an absolutely even distribution of the folds around the cuff. And you can download the bomber pattern in our catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
What density of cash corse is optimal for bomber cuffs?
Density 380–450 g/m² of foam quality with 5% to 8% lycra content.
How to hide the tail of the overlock threads on the circular seam of a cuff?
Using a tapestry needle with a large eye, the tail of the chain is pulled inside the overlock seam by 2–3 cm.
Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product. To be the first to learn about the intricacies of design, modeling and trends in the sewing world, subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.
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