A hidden zipper is an indispensable attribute of evening dresses, elegant skirts and classic trousers. A properly sewn hidden fastener is completely invisible from the outside, turning into a neat, thin seam. The main difficulties are the skew of the transverse seams at the waist and the runner getting stuck in the fabric. In this video tutorial we reveal all the professional intricacies of perfectly sewing in a hidden zipper.
Contents of the video tutorial on secret zippers
- 1. Gluing the seam allowances with a thin lobar adhesive edge
- 2. Folding and lightly ironing the zipper spiral to open the groove
- 3. Using a specialized foot with grooves for bending the teeth
- 4. Perfect alignment of the waist cross seam using control pins
- Tailor's tip: correct seam closure below the zipper
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
1. Preparing allowances
The allowances of parts in the zipper stitching area must be duplicated with thread-stitched interlining 15 mm wide, so that the elastic fabric does not stretch under the needle.
2. Order of operations
Unlike a regular zipper, the hidden fastener is sewn into the fully open seam. Only after stitching both zipper strips is the lower part of the seam of the product sewn down.
3. Grooved foot
A groove on the sole of the foot automatically bends the zipper spiral 90 degrees, allowing the needle to stitch directly to the base of the teeth without the risk of puncturing the spiral.
Advice to the master
Do not stitch close to the bottom metal zipper stop - leave a gap of 1.5–2.0 cm for free movement of the slider tail. And you can download patterns for dresses and skirts with a perfect fit in the catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why is the runner tight after sewing?
The stitching is too close to the teeth. Open and re-stitch with an indentation of 0.5 mm to the right.
Do I need to baste the hidden zipper before sewing?
Yes, pre-basting or pinning guarantees 100% matching waist seam.
Perfect zippers without creases are a sign of high skill! Subscribe to our video channel Pattern - Ready-made patterns.
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