In the 3rd part of the video of the master class on sewing knitted joggers, we move on to the main assembly of the trouser body: clean stitching of the side sections with matching pockets, connecting the crotch seams with a single stitch, processing the complex saddle seam of the seat (middle seam) and sewing elastic cash-corse cuffs to the bottom of the legs.
Contents of part 3 of the video lesson
- 1. Stitching side cuts on a 4-thread overlocker with pocket fixation
- 2. Aligning and sewing crotch seams from the bottom of one leg to the other
- 3. Processing of the middle seam (seat seam) with reinforcement in the crosspiece area
- 4. Calculation, stitching into a ring and stitching cashkorse cuffs
- Designer's advice: how to avoid tearing the middle seam when squatting
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
1. Assembling the side seams
The front and back halves fold face to face. When stitching the side seam, the overlock stitch goes around the pocket burlap, securing the bartacks.
2. Instep seam
Step cuts are ground with a continuous movement without displacing the control marks in the knee area.
3. Seam of the seat (cross)
One trouser leg is turned right side out and placed inside the second leg face to face. The middle seam is stitched with light tension on the fabric under the overlock foot.
4. Bottom cuffs
A cash-corse cuff 10–12 cm wide (5–6 cm when folded) is stitched to the bottom of the trouser leg with uniform tension on the garter.
Tailor's advice
Add an extra stretchy straight chain stitch or narrow zigzag stitch along the center seam in the area of maximum tension to prevent the pants from tearing at the seam. And the exact patterns of comfortable joggers can be downloaded from our catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
What coefficient should be used to calculate the cuff of the bottom of trousers?
A coefficient of 0.70–0.75 from the length of the lower cut of the trouser leg for a tight fit around the ankle.
Which direction should you iron the middle seam of trousers?
The middle seam allowances are ironed or pressed to the right side, followed by steaming.
Expertly designed patterns are the key to a perfect fit of any product.
Look for women's options for comfortable trousers, skirts and loungewear in the category patterns for women's trousers and skirts.
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