Sewing a classic stand-up collar into a shirt or blouse is an indicator of high tailoring class. The symmetrical sharp ends of the flyaway, the smooth rounding of the stand and the absolutely clean seam from the front and back require knowledge of professional technological techniques. In this step-by-step lesson we will look at the male (factory) and female (luxury) methods of assembling a unit.
Contents of the master class
- Correct duplication: collar, stand and allowances
- Sharpening the collar flap with a 1 mm edge
- Assembling the flange between the internal and external parts of the rack
- Sewing a collar into the neck of a shirt (closed method)
- Expert advice: how to achieve 100% symmetry of the ends of the collar
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Correct duplication of parts
The upper collar and the inner stand are duplicated with a special collar doubler on the reverse side, with an indentation from the cuts by the width of the allowance (7–8 mm) so that the seams are not excessively thick.
Turning the flap of a collar with edging
The upper collar is cut 2 mm larger than the lower one along the external sections. When stitching, the fit of the upper collar in the corners is laid, so that the corners will never ride up.
Assembling the flange between the rack parts
The finished turned and ironed collar flap is inserted between the outer and inner posts along the control notches and stitched with a single line from ledge to ledge.
Sewing a collar into the neck of a shirt
The outer stand is stitched to the neckline of the front and back, the allowances are ironed inside the stand, after which the inner cut of the stand is folded and adjusted to the edge 1 mm from the face of the product.
Tailor's advice
To turn a sharp corner of a collar, place a loop of thread in the corner stitch and carefully pull the corner outward using the thread. And our proven ready-made patterns will help you sew the perfect men's or women's shirt.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How does the male method of sewing in a stand differ from the female one?
In the men's factory method, the inner stand is hemmed with an open hem, while in the women's couture method, the inner stand is hemmed with hidden hand stitches.
What width should I leave at the neckline?
The allowance at the neck of the shirt is strictly 1.0 cm (on thin silks - 0.7 cm).
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