Clase magistral: costura de pantalones deportivos (Parte 2: bolsillo lateral con costura y pespunte) | Vykroyka.com.ua

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In the second part of the training video course on sewing sports trousers, we look at the most popular and practical type of pocket - a side pocket with a side cut (hungari). You will learn how to professionally stabilize an inclined entrance to a pocket with a split thread stitching tape, turn a seam to the wrong side, lay an even finishing stitch and cleanly join pocket burlap on an overlocker.

1. Stabilization of the pocket entrance

The inclined cut of the pocket entrance is cut at an angle to the loop posts and easily stretches when worn. To avoid sagging of the pocket (“bulging”), the cut is reinforced with thread-stitched non-woven tape 10–12 mm wide.

2. Clean facing connection

The burlap fabric is sewn to the front half of the trousers using a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.8 mm at a distance of 0.7 cm from the cut.

3. Edgebanding and finishing stitching

The seam is ironed onto the burlap and sewn to the edge (1 mm from the seam) or along the face of the front half with a finishing stitch 0.5–0.7 cm wide.

4. Assembling the barrel and setting

The front half is placed on the cutting side, aligning the control notches along the waist and side, after which reliable double machine fastenings are placed at the top and bottom of the pocket entrance.

Advice to the master
Always place a 0.8 cm long bartack on a lockstitch machine at the top and bottom corners of the pocket - these are the points that receive the maximum load when your hands are lowered into your pockets. And you can download proven patterns for sports trousers in the catalog ready-made patterns.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

What fabric should I use to cut the side of the pocket?
The cut-off side is cut from the main fabric (footer), and the lower burlap is made from thin lining to match.

How wide should the pocket finishing stitch be?
The standard width for the sport style finishing stitch is 5-7mm from the edge.

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