Processing the codpiece fastener (trouser bow) in men's and women's classic trousers, jeans and chinos is one of the most critical technological components. The slope protects the body from contact with the metal zipper, and the beautiful curved finishing stitch on the codpiece emphasizes the factory quality of the product. In this video tutorial we go through step by step sewing a codpiece using reference technology.
Contents of the video tutorial on codpiece
- 1. Cutting and duplicating a one-piece codpiece and slope
- 2. Sewing the left zipper tape to the edge and closing the seam with an overlock
- 3. Connecting the right side of the codpiece and performing the finishing stitch according to the template
- 4. Sewing the middle crotch seam (seat) with a double strong stitch
- Tailor's tip: cardboard template for the perfect finishing stitch radius
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
1. Preparing the slope
The slope is folded in half lengthwise, facing inwards, the lower cut is turned at an angle or rounded, turned inside out and ironed with an overcast edge.
2. Marking the finishing stitch
The stitch width of the codpiece is 3.0–3.5 cm. To obtain a perfect curve at the bottom, use a cardboard template.
3. Double tack
At the lower point of the codpiece's curvature, a fastener is placed, which fastens the codpiece to the slope, preventing the fastener from breaking when putting on trousers.
Advice to the master
When laying the finishing stitch of the codpiece, bend the slope to the side so as not to accidentally stitch it to the front half of the trousers. And you can download patterns for classic and casual trousers in the catalog ready-made patterns.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Which side is the codpiece fastened to in men's and women's trousers?
In men's trousers, the codpiece closes from left to right, in women's classic trousers - from right to left (in modern unisex jeans, more often - from left to right).
Which zipper is best for jeans?
Jeans are fitted exclusively with a metal one-piece zipper of type YKK #4 or #5.
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